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Thursday, October 23, 2014

A chilaquiles revelation at Eagle Rock’s CaCao Mexicatessen

Photo from CaCao Mexicatessen

By Valentina Silva

Whenever I go to Mexico, I have a habit of eating chilaquiles every day for breakfast. They’re on every menu, whether you’re in Mexico City or the Mexican Riviera. I just can’t pass them up.

The best part about it is that they’re always different — sometimes they’re green, sometimes red, super saucy or on the drier side. Chips can be used or maybe you even get broken up tostadas. Eggs scrambled or fried, maybe with some chicken mixed in or chorizo even, if you’re lucky.

Ah, chilaquiles…let me count the ways.

Still, even with all my chilaquiles experience, I’d never had them with mole until a recent brunch at CaCao Mexicatessen in Eagle Rock. I’d actually never enjoyed CaCao’s breakfast menu until that day—I’d been tempted by images of their blue corn pancakes, but I just never got around to an A.M. visit.

In a savory mood, I passed up the intended pancakes in favor of  the Huevos Rancheros, adding chorizo. And while that dish was was absolutely delicious in its own right, I quickly abandoned my own plate to commandeer my mother’s Chicaquiles en Mole Poblano. After one taste, begging and pleading for more bites followed.

I’ve never enjoyed chilaquiles so much. The combination of rich sweetness from the mole mixed with the perfectly yolky fried egg and raw onions made for the disarming contrast. Addictively disarming contrast.  A detectable but not overwhelming amount of Monterey Jack cheese is melted within the layers of tortillas, and there’s even some crema to smooth things out. I’m now of the conviction that eggs and mole should never be apart.

The Yukon Gold breakfast potatoes and the cup of beans that shared the plate should also be mentioned since they were a worthy companion to the mole-soaked stack of tortillas.

However, even with all this chilaquiles-induced joy, there is a downside: I’m so hopelessly smitten that now I’ll probably never try those pancakes.

CaCao Mexicatessen
1576 Colorado Blvd, Eagle Rock

Valentina Silva is a regular contributor writing about food and restaurants. You can also find Valentina’s reviews and stories on her new blog, Eastside Food Bites.



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  1. I’ve read some very good reviews on CaCao but somehow never found the dishes mentioned excited me enough to say, ‘Yes, now I know I have to go’.
    Valentina–thank you. Now I DO know I have to go.

  2. Thanks, Gabriele. I’m glad to be of service!

  3. CACAO IS THE BOMB
    You can eat till you pop there. Consider sharing a main dish and a side because the portion size is epic on some of the plates.

  4. this is the best mexican food i have ever had – IN MY LIFE.

  5. love cacao and it seems to be packed a lot. how long do you think before the family moves or closes the flower shop and expands the restaurant??

  6. I’ve always felt Cacao was a bit too pricey, especially considering the countless Mexican options around Eagle Rock. Still, ever since Antigua changed their chilaquiles recipe, I’ve been looking for something new. Maybe Cacao is worth another shot.

  7. two words:

    DUCK BURRITO.

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