Whenever I go to Mexico, I have a habit of eating chilaquiles every day for breakfast. They’re on every menu, whether you’re in Mexico City or the Mexican Riviera. I just can’t pass them up.
The best part about it is that they’re always different — sometimes they’re green, sometimes red, super saucy or on the drier side. Chips can be used or maybe you even get broken up tostadas. Eggs scrambled or fried, maybe with some chicken mixed in or chorizo even, if you’re lucky.
Ah, chilaquiles…let me count the ways.
Still, even with all my chilaquiles experience, I’d never had them with mole until a recent brunch at CaCao Mexicatessen in Eagle Rock. I’d actually never enjoyed CaCao’s breakfast menu until that day—I’d been tempted by images of their blue corn pancakes, but I just never got around to an A.M. visit.
In a savory mood, I passed up the intended pancakes in favor of the Huevos Rancheros, adding chorizo. And while that dish was was absolutely delicious in its own right, I quickly abandoned my own plate to commandeer my mother’s Chicaquiles en Mole Poblano. After one taste, begging and pleading for more bites followed.
I’ve never enjoyed chilaquiles so much. The combination of rich sweetness from the mole mixed with the perfectly yolky fried egg and raw onions made for the disarming contrast. Addictively disarming contrast. A detectable but not overwhelming amount of Monterey Jack cheese is melted within the layers of tortillas, and there’s even some crema to smooth things out. I’m now of the conviction that eggs and mole should never be apart.
The Yukon Gold breakfast potatoes and the cup of beans that shared the plate should also be mentioned since they were a worthy companion to the mole-soaked stack of tortillas.
However, even with all this chilaquiles-induced joy, there is a downside: I’m so hopelessly smitten that now I’ll probably never try those pancakes.
Valentina Silva is a regular contributor writing about food and restaurants. You can also find Valentina’s reviews and stories on her new blog, Eastside Food Bites.