Jonathan Gold’s take on Trois Familia; Mother Dough to close in Los Feliz; Phoebe Dahl’s pop up in Echo Park



So Los Angeles Times food critic Jonathan Gold walks into Trois Familia, a French-Mex restaurant that opened in Silver Lake a few months ago by the same chefs of Trois Mec and Petite Trois. What are the highlights of his review? Gold said that the food was based on the “sloppy morning-after breakfast stuff, the food you might snag from a drive-thru window, the refrigerator case of a 7-Eleven, or the kind of Mexican restaurant where the Cinco de Mayo decorations might not come down until August.” He also described Trois Familia as “the most Silver Lake restaurant imaginable, down to the mostly vegetarian menu …”  He ended his review by saying that the chilaquiles were “an improved version of the Taco Bell A.M. Crunchwrap.”

In other Shopper & Diner news:

  • After four years of hand-crafting Neapolitan-style pizzas, Bez Compani is shutting down his wood-burning oven at his pizzeria named Mother Dough in Los Feliz, reports the Los Angeles Times. Turns out that his artisanal, hand-crafted approach proved to be too time consuming and unsustainable for the London native. If the sale of the Hollywood Boulevard restaurant goes according to schedule, Mother Dough’s last pizza could be served by the end of December.
  • Just in time for the holiday shopping crunch, fashion designer Phoebe Dahl of Faircloth & Supply is showcasing her collection at a weeklong pop-up in Ali Golden’s recently opened Echo Park boutique, reports Racked LA. Dahl’s signature Basic line, handwoven scarves, homewares and organic linen dresses are featured from December 15 to December 22 in the Sunset Boulevard shop.
  • Avion Clothier has landed in Atwater Village, reports the Los Angeles Times. Owned by designer Katherine Tsina Bird, the Glendale Boulevard shop offers its Avion Clothier line, which includes women’s, men’s, utilitarian and unisex shirting. Christina Lehr, Makié’s children’s wear, Eshelman Pottery and Portuguese rugs and blankets are also featured.

Cecilia Padilla-Brill is a communications writer and journalist. She writes news, health, education and feature stories. Cecilia is currently working on her first novel. She has lived in Echo Park since 1999

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One comment

  1. I thoroughly enjoyed Gold’s review of Trois Familia, although distance and probably finances prevent me from dining there myself. The review is wry but not disparaging in the least.

    “So a French chef walks into a Mexican restaurant. And what comes out of his kitchen is whimsical — pain perdu fashioned to resemble churros, galettes stuffed with chorizo, a Croissan’wich with black-bean salsa — but is also not really a joke, because what he is cooking is simultaneously Mexican-American-French food and an ironic commentary on Mexican-American-French food, which is to say a kind of meta-cuisine, perhaps closer in intent to what Roy Choi concocted for his Kogi trucks than to anything you might find in a French restaurant in Mexico City. (Mexico actually was ruled by France off and on in the 19th century; the marriage of the cuisines is nothing new.) Plus, Lefebvre and his crew can cook.”

    I don’t mind eating meta cuisine if it is satisfying and filling.

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