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Silver Lake’s Wolfdown restaurant – part of a changing Rowena Avenue

SILVER LAKE — Wolfdown restaurant may not exactly be a symbol of gentrification along Rowena Avenue, since the area hasn’t really been downtrodden within recent memory. But it seems to be part of a general upscale movement in what had been a sleepy section of the neighborhood, in the view of L.A. Weekly restaurant reviewer Besha Rodell.

Wolfdown is owned Jason and Chrissy Kim, whose Forage restaurant on Sunset Boulevard was part of a new wave of restaurants that were part of the gentrification of the Sunset Junction section of Silver Lake. On Rowena, the Kim’s new restaurant  opened in a comfortable and oft-beloved pizza place called Nicky D’s. You can argue (depending on your taste) whether Wolfdown is better than a reliable pizzeria. But clearly it’s newer, and has a newer aesthetic – with an atmosphere that “captures the magic of a treehouse,” Rodell said.

The menu borrows from cuisines around the world, particularly Asia -with items such as citrus chicory salad; beets with avocado, grapefruit and sorrel; Korean fried chicken; and coconut black rice. Rodell recommends focusing on the small plates over the large.

Wolfdown is located in the 2700 block of Rowena Avenue in Silver Lake.

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